Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2027 presented a study of hard and soft—two opposing forces that converge across the design and construction of garments and accessories. These contrasts coexist and create new forms, proving opposites do attract. 

Glenn Martens unveiled the collection in a flower-adorned space imagined by Belgian floral artist Mark Colle. The setting paid homage to a celebrated 2012 couture show by fellow Belgian designer Raf Simons, with florals appearing as if they’d aged over time. This idea of transformation is a subtle connecting thread, reflecting the collection’s philosophy of copying, reinterpreting, and reconstructing existing ideas. 

Florals appear throughout the collection; most uniquely, they’re on dresses that combine a coat lining with a floral-print outer layer. Together, they create a new silhouette, with the floral print creating a hardened contrast juxtaposed with the soft lining, further reinforcing the tension between opposing materials. 

Hardness is added to archetypal clothing to create fresh silhouette possibilities, while tailoring gains new structural elements and draped fabrics are built around new shapes and forms. Meanwhile, hardened panels are added to trench coats, running either horizontally at the waist or vertically down both sides of the body. This continuation follows the principle of destruction synonymous with the Maison Margiela language. 

Images courtesy of Maison Margiela.