Kim Jones took a deep dive into FENDI‘s history and lineage in preparation for the brand’s Fall/Winter 2023 show.

Finding direct inspiration for the collection from the personal wardrobe of Delfina Delettrez Fendi—4th generation heiress to the FENDI Fashion House, Jones used his fascination with her personal style and connection to FENDI as a starting point to fuel his vision for the collection.

“It all started with Delfina. There’s a chicness but a perversity to the way she twists FENDI, which is what I love,” says Kim Jones.

The collection had an intentional purpose, actively scrutinizing the polarizing gender archetypes that are seemingly imposed through existing binaries. Jones challenges these assumptions in the construction of his designs—actively rejecting the lingering image of perpetual ladylike elegance and sophistication that exists within fashion. Models were noticeably not polished to perfection, but rather deliberately left undone—knitwear draped askew and often left unbuttoned.

Utilitarian elements were infused into designs—boiler suits reimagined with skirts, loose collared button-down shirts with lace appliqué, and blazers deconstructed with cut-outs. Classically masculine silhouettes stood out, straight cut trousers and fitted pant suits were often layered over pleated skirts of different lengths. The layering is complex and calculated, simple pieces subverted to create dynamic silhouettes and differences in textures. Knitwear appeared in different forms and referenced historical elements of the house. Graphic motifs echoed the archives of FENDI’s Fall/Winter 1996 collection, while the multifunctional construction was inspired by Karl Lagerfeld’s sketches from 1981.

“It’s deconstructed, but luxurious. There’s a little nod to punk, and my admiration for DIY, but moved on towards something chic,” explains Kim Jones.

The collection introduced a new handbag—the FENDI Multi, which pays homage to the versatility and duplicity of the house, creating two distinct silhouettes depending on how you wear it. Other accessories juxtaposed the workwear and uniform elements, including thigh high lace-up boots, and lingerie inspired slips—influenced by fetishism.

“That duality is very FENDI—as is the idea of something which appears simple but, in reality, is very complex.” says Silvia Venturini Fendi.

View the gallery for our favourite looks from FENDI’s Fall/Winter 2023 runway show.