Want a snapshot of the next big trends in beauty? Fashion Month is the place to find it. And with every cycle comes a series of new looks and products worthy of your attention. Some are bold, others are wearable, but all are guaranteed to show up again and again in the months ahead. From New York City to Milan, Proenza Schouler to Saint Laurent, we’re covering the major trends and the products you need to achieve them.
NEW YORK CITY
Girls with Curls
“When you get that little height in the front to the side, it’s a nod to the 80s, you know?” said global Redken creative director Guido Paulo of the style he created backstage at Escada. “The designer was looking at Julia Roberts a little bit, so you see girls with curls around her sizing, slightly to the side as well,” he continued. To get the look, he used Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam to create volume, and a small barrel iron to define curls with little brushwork. “It’s got that movement and ease,” he said. It doesn’t get much more Pretty Woman than that.
The girls of Proenza Schouler were all about barely-there makeup. For their homecoming show, designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez teamed up with Lancôme and global creative director Lisa Eldridge to highlight the models’ natural beauty. Eldridge put emphasis on the skin, giving it a healthy glow and taking her time to get it just right. She finished up the look with strong brushed-up brows and a pale lip crayon in “Pink Chroma” from the designers’ Lancôme collection.
At Nicholas Kirkwood, hair pro Sam McKnight took electric accessories to the next level. For his “cyber ravers” style, McKnight and his team wove plastic pieces and neon laces around models’ hair plaited in intricate braids, which glowed as they walked down the runway. The result was a futuristic feast for the eyes.
All That Glitters
The search for the next bright shiny trend was called off at Simone Rocha. Twenty-four hours after Halpern went for ultra-shiny lids rimmed with kohl, makeup artist Sam Bryant dipped into a range of glitters to brush on painterly strokes across eyelids. As if that wasn’t enough, the high glitz gazes in silver, gold, and mulberry were made to match the models’ OTT crowns that ruled the runway.
“The looks remind me of Jeremy’s fashion sketches coming to life from the page right onto the clothes,” said Miss Pop for Essie, of the inspiration for Jeremy Scott’s Moschino collection. For the show, she recreated one of the prints that mimicked Sharpie scribbles on nails. After applying a base coat, Miss Pop dipped a striping brush in a black polish called “Licorice” and created little hand-drawn designs she named “negative space scribble” all over the models’ nails.
Creative hair accessories gained momentum from New York and reached a fever pitch in Milan. While Etro kicked things off with tropical print scarves tied as turbans, it was Prada’s headbands that were the real scene-stealers. Guido Paulo either cut baby Jean Seberg bangs or used extensions to create the look, then applied Redken Forceful 23 to give them a piecey effect. Before models hit the runway, Paulo finished styles off with oversized headbands in gold-studded leather, cool prints, and neon shades.
It seems like every season we see more and more individuality on the runway, and nowhere was it more apparent than at Saint Laurent. Before designer Anthony Vaccarello had his models walk on water for the show, there was a lot going on backstage. Models like Anja Rubik had her hair dyed two-toned, while Marina Krtinic Cooper got a raven mushroom cut imagined by Duffy. Elsewhere, makeup pro Tom Pecheux applied bright yellow shadows on some models, and bold crimson lips on others. Nipples were freed, and limbs appeared extra glossy.
This season, Altuzarra was a real trip. Inside the Hôtel Potocki, the designer created a tropical paradise to showcase his vacation-ready collection. Taking inspiration from a heat wave, Tom Pecheux dipped his brushes into a palette of beachy and peachy shades to create the look of a touch too much sun. Complexions were luminous and bronzed, and eyes were given a smokey effect that started as sherbet in the inner corner and blended out to dark tangerine. It was nothing if not refreshing.