Highland Base’s resort site, nestled within the Kerlingarfjöll mountain range in the Icelandic Highland, looks a bit like something out of a Nordic fairy tale. Quiet kilometres of nothing except rolling mountains and majestic plains, and then, suddenly, a scattered collection of structures that emanate a charming mid-century feeling. Quaint A-frame huts repurposed from a 1960s ski school crouch on slopes beside a grand hotel with a rustic-looking pine exterior, and smaller lodges sit nearby.
On a particularly mystical night, with the northern lights shimmering overhead and the thick snow absorbing the sound of your footsteps, it wouldn’t seem out of place for a troll to be strolling somewhere between the hotel restaurant and the hot baths. Local legends do in fact allege that the creatures are partial to wandering the region. The name of the area itself, Kerlingarfjöll, means “old lady mountain” and is attributed to a folk tale in which a troll woman accidentally went out during the day and turned to stone in the sunlight, becoming a part of the mountainous terrain.
For many years, the Highland, the mostly uninhabited central region of Iceland, was more or less the exclusive domain of trolls and their folktale compatriots. Highland Base, a new resort effort from the people behind luxurious Icelandic spa retreat Blue Lagoon, is now giving adventurous guests an opportunity to explore this remote area—even in the middle of winter.
If you can brave the cold and the long nights, as well as the challenge of reaching the area—accessible in winter only via Super Jeep manned by a professional driver—the rewards can be striking. In winter, the drama of the Highland landscape is particularly pronounced. With everything covered in shining white snow, the grandeur and strength of the mountains loom even more magnificently. Such a majestic environment is perfect for exploration, in both an environmental and an internal sense.
Visitors can explore the Highland either on snowmobile, with a tour taking you up the Fannborg mountain, across the plains and toward the enormous Hofsjökull glacier, or on skis. Ski tours are catered to a selection of different skill levels, from more casual backcountry skiing and Nordic ski expeditions, to tours intended for a bit more of a thrill. For a more relaxing activity, the resort site features outdoor mineral water hot baths heated by energy sourced underground from the nearby Hveradalir, a geothermal field whose name means “valley of hot springs.”
The remote northern region, free of light pollution, is ideal for watching the aurora borealis. The resort itself was designed to reduce its own glow to give guests a great view of the atmospheric show of light. Under the dancing shimmers of greens and purples, standing among an impossibly large, snow-covered mountain range, you’re well-positioned to feel the sense of slowing down and contemplation that’s so central to the essence of winter. And once you’re ready to warm up, a seat by the massive picture windows in the hotel suites might inspire that classic Nordic hygge or cozy contentment, that ties a perfect evening together.
