Louis Vuitton continued its tradition of staging runway presentations in some of the world’s most splendid architectural structures and settings by taking over the Salk Institute in San Diego for its Cruise 2023 collection. Erected in 1965 by architect Louis Kahn, this brutalist building functions as a biomedical research hub, a fitting association for our current times. Kahn built the Salk Institute with the sun at its heart, which is perfectly framed by the building within a precise axis of the central fountain. This interplay between architectonic elements, sun rays, and shimmering water bathes the surroundings in a glorious golden hue during sunset, which the Maison used to its scenographic advantage.
The brand’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière was greatly inspired by the sun and its luminescence when designing the collection, resulting in futuristic garb that wouldn’t look out of place in the next instalment of Dune. The use of textured silk, linen, jacquard, leather, and tweed mimics a metallic palette that glistens under the sunlight. Sneakers were featured aplenty, giving Vuitton’s desert vagabonds a pragmatic shoe to traverse varying terrain in.
Notable guests in attendance included Maude and Iris Apatow, Samara Weaving, Gemma Chan, and Phoebe Dynevor, who, alongside the gaggle of industry personnel, were utterly transfixed by Ghesquière’s deft convergence of setting and sartorial splendour.
View the gallery for our favourite looks.