Mimicking the mystery of twilight, models emerge from a blue-toned circular orb and follow a twisting catwalk into another pool of projected light at the other side of the moss-covered room. Inside the Garde Républicaine, moss is mounted and carpeted across the space. The plush dampness gives softly underfoot, springing back with each step. Guests are struck by its natural scent and drawn to touch and feel its textures. But when the show starts, another fragrance reaches the front row—the house signature of leather.

For this Autumn/Winter collection, Creative Director Nadège Vanhée explored the colours of the night. In a show titled ‘entre chien et loup’, a French idiom for twilight, dusk, or nightfall, the phrase reveals that ambiguous moment when the light is too dim to tell a dog from a wolf. It’s a time suspended between the familiarity of the known and the uncertainty of the unknown, a theme that energized the collection.

Yet, in a show depicting twilight, black isn’t the only shade. Pops of colour break through the darkness with delicious deep maroons and mustards. Many pieces are designed for versatility, featuring removable elements such as detachable fur collars on coats or quilted bag covers, giving pieces a new lease on life. Additionally, jackets can double as dresses, while asymmetric zippers cut through the leather’s softness, suggesting that the garments can be opened and reconfigured to explore new meanings.

Leather dominates, of course, but it doesn’t restrict the body; it moves with it. Leather one-pieces offer a riding uniform for your favourite horse girl, along with riding pants equipped with suspenders to hold layers in place. Some leather cuts are sharp, while others have dandy influences with swooping line movements. Looks are pulled together with functional flat-heeled riding boots or accented with cinched belting for dimension—feeling truly equestrian in design.