Augmenting the beatific mysticism of Rome, Kim Jones used his Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture collection for FENDI to present a passionate ode to the eternal, spiritual, and celestial qualities of the Italian capital. “When you walk down the street in Rome, you are constantly moving back and forth in time,” explains Jones, highlighting how the city has become a liminal space of infinite possibility, both a well-preserved time capsule and an image of modernity.
With this contextual catalyst in mind, Jones presented a selection of fineries that conflate mythology and futurism. Ceremonial garb associated with the deities of yore are given an aesthetic remodelling through intricate beadwork, resulting in shimmering bodices that recall steel’s lacquered surfaces.
Elsewhere, the architectural marvels of Ancient Rome are reworked into garments with a modern savoir faire. Classical statues located outside of FENDI’s Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana are the inspiration for chiaroscuro motifs rendered onto luxurious sheared mink and velvet. Heat-molded leathers are embroidered to resemble Corinthian reliefs, utilizing sequins, mink, and pearls to achieve this trompe l’oeil effect. Moreover, archaeological remains, including volcanic stone, hematite, natural geodes, and amethyst are incorporated into handbags and jewellery, showcasing a reverence for the ancient histories written in Rome’s detritus.
This is sartorial splendour befitting of the modern woman’s strength, with all its imperial trains and lamb leather armour.