The Spring-Summer 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection marks CHANEL’s return to the Grand Palais, a historic site that doubles as an exhibition hall and museum. Here, the collection was balanced against the beauty of the symbolic glass roof, where Inez and Vinoodh, a Dutch-American fashion photographer duo, shot a brand teaser video to ignite anticipation.

When it came to the collection and location, the design elements referenced the beauties of flying. This included feathers, furs, flowy fabrics and lots of sunlight illuminating the runway. Even a large white open birdcage was present in the airy atmosphere to commemorate this motif. 

This object’s decorative nature was grandiose, with structural freeness, giving the mind a reference point to fantasize. Lining the cage were chairs and benches that resembled a garden’s landscape. These features, coupled with the glass ceiling and ambience, created the perfect atmospheric dreamscape, a fairytale oasis, which was equally translated into the clothing choices. 

The combination of chiffon capes and embroidered transparent shirt dresses evokes a sense of ethereal elegance, while the slit skirts and fluid trousers offer a modern, dynamic flair. The sequined and fringed jeans add a playful touch, contrasting beautifully with the sophistication of the trench coats adorned with multicoloured feathers. It feels like a celebration of femininity, where each piece flows and interacts, creating a visual dance that highlights movement and grace.

According to the show notes, the collection is a tribute to women who freed themselves from society’s gaze, a perspective similar to Gabrielle Chanel’s, the brand’s founder. It rejects the perceptions of onlookers’ judgment and embraces dressing for yourself. The collection looks at channelling revolutionary women across disciplines, like literary figure Colette, to whom Gabrielle Chanel was a close friend.  

The collection has an abundance of CHANEL staples: tweed, jersey, quilted bags and two-tone shoes. But of course, there are other standouts. Aviator jackets with Peter Pan collars evoke imagination, and flight suits in black or white faille bring an edge of tailoring. Uniform dresses with white collars and the brand’s signature tweed come in pink or blue sets. To nod to the architecture of the building, a black knitted skirt and sparkling platform shoes offer a wind of freedom.

Although CHANEL is without a creative director, the brand is continuing to make strides. It also turns to tradition to ground this untraditional approach. The Grand Palais has been the go-to location for the CHANEL catwalks for years, and it has finally returned to this spot again. The brand has even supported the restoration and refurbishment of this architectural jewel. 

The location was further documented in the teaser, which showcased model Nigina Sharipova, wearing a black faille jumpsuit with a feathered collar, pushing open the doors of the ‘Gabrielle Chanel’ entrance, recently named in tribute to the House’s founder, before taking a seat under the legendary glass roof. This may be where the show was held, but what makes it particularly special is its history to the house. It enables a narrative celebrating art, history, fashion and architecture all under one roof. 

CHANEL Spring/Summer 2025 Full Show.