For Dior’s Spring/Summer 2024 presentation, Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director of Dior Makeup, crafted a makeup look that emphasized the lips. We caught up with Philips backstage at Paris Fashion Week to discuss his creative process and the inspiration behind the Dior’s Spring/Summer 2024 beauty look.
Peter Philips photographed by Pierre Debusschere.
What are you calling the beauty look for the Spring/Summer 2024 show?
“The brief I got from Maria [Grazia Chiuri] is Witchy.”
The lips look wine stained as well. Was this intentional?
“Maria wanted something very simple. We didn’t want to do anything with contouring or highlighting or a flat foundation. To get this witchy lip, I used the Dior Onstage Crayon, which is the new one and a combination of the waterproof liner and the kohl liner. I use this product because it stays the best because it’s waterproof. Then I line the top lip and the bottom up, just fill in with black, rough, and blend out quickly because you’ve got a short time to work it with the Q tip, so it bleeds out a bit. We have a few shades of non-transfer Rouge Dior, and we use them to blend the black out, so it doesn’t become too harsh. It depends on the shape of the lip. On some girls, it looks like a natural lip because disappears in the shadow. Some girls it becomes extremely gothic. It’s like a very luminous, glowy skin, and witchy look.”
How long does it take when you have the brief of the show and create the final makeup?
“My brief was witchy lips, about two weeks ago. We did a quick test on Friday and Maria liked it. I hadn’t seen any clothes yet. Just a few sketches. And then Sunday we did the full look test with Guido [Palau]. Then I saw a few garments. But the brief stayed the same, witchy lips.”
How did you prep the skin?
“For the skin, I went with Dior’s Capture Totale line because it’s not too greasy, not too rich, and it nourishes nicely. It works well with the Forever Foundation. There are no nuances, there is no highlighting, no contouring. The next step was to curl the lashes. A little bit of base kohl liner in the eye to make sure that the eyes look bigger, and a gently enhanced eyebrow. I moisturized the lips in advance, of course, before we applied the liner. I took off everything with the remover, applied the liner, and made sure that the lips didn’t touch so that it sets in. Then tapped with a Kleenex, so it’s really dry. Almost uncomfortably, dry. The lipstick is a matte long lasting, so it stays. We didn’t use any powder because it’s already dry enough.”
What’s the hardest thing about creating this runway look?
“It’s almost easier to do a classic lip. But the idea was gothic and witchy. I have my teams set up in two. There are so many gestures you have to do to retouch the lip. Two hands-on and off. They really work in duos now. It’s tricky with very small details. If we don’t maintain it properly, it becomes a totally different makeup statement.”
View the gallery below for Peter Philip’s key beauty notes.