In 1919, Jacques Guerlain revolutionized the world of perfumery with his creation of Mitsouko. The velvety, peachy-soft skin chypre was groundbreaking, not just because it was one of the first fruit-forward scents, but also because he used a synthetic ingredient called Gamma Undecalactone (also known as Aldehyde C14) to mimic the essence of peach. Now just over 100 years later, Guerlain Director of Perfume Creation, Delphine Jelk, revisits the joyful aroma of peach, in the latest opus for the Maison’s L’Art et la Matière collection.
Jelk, who studied at the renowned Grasse Institute of Perfumery, says one of the most important principles she learned during her studies was the value of the three Ps: passion, patience, and perseverance. And since her appointment as Maison Director in 2014, she has been skillfully reinterpreting Guerlain’s century-old Parisian stye with self-assured confidence and supreme creativity. A fourth P: Pêche Mirage is the latest example.
“A good perfume is one that is recognizable,” says Jelk. “[It] should have a distinctive sillage, or wake, that lingers in the air and creates a lasting impression. These qualities make a perfume not only enjoyable to wear but also unforgettable to those who experience it.”
Pêche Mirage is indeed unforgettable. It’s a deeply layered fragrance that is so distinct in its composition; it immediately stands out from the crowd. Ripe, juicy peach opens the perfume but is quickly met with saffron and blackcurrant. At the heart of the fragrance, Jelk introduces leather—a juxtaposition that she says is meant to catch you off guard.
“The magic of perfumery lies in finding surprising associations that evoke emotion. The idea behind this collection is to surprise, and the pairing of peach and leather does just that. It creates an unexpected harmony that is both intriguing and captivating,” says Jelk. And as it settles, the fragrance finishes with the slightly sweet, woody redolence’s of amber and sandalwood.
Peach isn’t especially common in perfumes because it’s impossible to extract its fragrant compound to create an essence or absolute. This is why Jacques Guerlain’s original creation with Mitsouko was so impressive. His ability to imitate the smell of the fruit using science was a display of true innovation. Now the same is true of Pêche Mirage, a feat Jelk is most proud of.
Jelk’s composition includes a new molecule derived from green chemistry called Melbatone that successfully mimics all the details of the peach, from the texture of its flesh and its juicy side to the velvety softness of its skin.
“This is the first time in the L’Art & la Matière collection that I have focused on a specific molecule. I am very happy about this because (…) perfume is, above all, an alchemy of many molecules and not just an assembly of natural extracts. Highlighting this aspect is crucial to me,” Jelk says.
As part of the illustrious L’Art & la Matière collection, Guerlain partnered Jelk with visual artist and photographer, Charles Petillon, who created a design featuring astringe of white balloons that adorn the scent’s baby blue collector’s case.
“[The balloons are] a kind of metaphor for the molecules that make up the Pêche Mirage fragrance,” Petillon explains. This desire, to make the invisible, visible—whether through scent or sight—was the thread that connected the two artists creative outputs.
“The limited-edition bottle is absolutely stunning,” Jelk says. “The small details truly elevate the experience [and make] it a fragrance that is as beautiful to look at as it is to wear.”
Pêche Mirage is a sensual, delicious, velvety scent that stands alone in its uniqueness, care, and innovation. It is sure to become a cornerstone of the Maison’s olfactory offering for many years to come.
Shop Pêche Mirage at Guerlain.
