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A Rural Tuscan Resort with Urban Amenities

The stone farmhouses and medieval villages dotting the Tuscan countryside never lose their charm. But a hip newcomer is courting a new generation of travellers looking for a rural retreat with big-city amenities. Chapter Chianti, which opened in July, is set in a restored, centuries-old hamlet in Cavriglia, about 45 minutes from Florence.

After Chapter Roma, Chianti is the second “chapter” (sorry) under the Chapter Italia hotel group, run by Italian hotelier Marco Cilia, who purchased the property at auction in 2022 and refurbished it as a modern country resort. If the Rome hotel is a graffiti-splashed hangout for the city’s creative class, this is the country house they flee to on summer weekends. Over a family-style dinner of grilled meats and veg, though, Cilia mentioned plans to eventually convert the resort into a year-round destination.

Cilia tapped South African designer Tristan du Plessis to refresh the 82 rooms and public spaces, injecting a contemporary aesthetic while preserving the rustic character of the hamlet. Du Plessis paired the original stone walls and vaulted ceilings with polished concrete, bold textures, and furniture he designed for local artisans to build. The rooms are outfitted with warm wood floors, marble, and arched cane headboards. My spacious suite kept the original arched windows and included a separate Zen den with a walk-in shower and luxurious soaking tub.

Chapter Chianti’s crown jewel is the panoramic pool overlooking the rolling hills. The floor of the pool features a glass mosaic by the artist Shira Barzilay, who goes by Koketit and is known for her minimalist drawings. While a day trip through neighbouring vineyards is one of the region’s main draws, sipping Campari spritzes poolside is simply too tempting an offer.

Come dinnertime, we dined al fresco at Osso, the on-site restaurant overseen by the Naples-born chef Daniele Auricchio, who trained in Michelin-starred kitchens. The concept is an Italian chophouse in the style of an old-school macelleria, or butcher shop: you pick your meat, your cut, and how it’s grilled.

Chapter Chianti is also an agriturismo destination for green-thumbed travellers to learn more about the land through agricultural activities including truffle hunting and cooking classes. I opted for falconry and ended up locked eyes with a majestic female bird of prey named Sybilla, who, we were told, is on tense terms with her male peers.

Later on, after aperitivos at the Main Bar, we returned to Osso for our final dinner. The wild boar ragù with pappardelle, a Tuscan classic, was so nice we ordered it twice, washing it down with as many glasses of Chianti Classico. The following morning, I recovered at the spa, treating myself to a hydrotherapy circuit inspired by the rituals of ancient Roman bathhouses — a social experience made all the more serene by the country views. After cycling through the hot and cold pools and saunas, I was restored to good health by a deep tissue massage.

Still to come in 2027: The Mansion, a five-bedroom villa with its own pool and a chef and butler on call. There will also be an outdoor spa pool and a countryside outpost of Hey Güey, the Mexican restaurant from Chapter Roma.

My favourite souvenir, though, was a small plate that I painted during a meditative pottery class. You’d never mistake my creation for Ginori, but each time I use it, the memory of painting under the Tuscan sun delights me.

Images courtesy of Chapter Chianti.

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