Following last week’s news of Valentino Garavani’s passing at 93, this haute couture unveiling acted as a needed moment of remembrance. The legacy of the house’s founder was certainly felt, with Alessandro Michele—former Gucci director and now Valentino‘s Creative Director—delivering a collection that truly hit the mark. Titled Specula Mundi, Latin for ‘mirror of the world’, the tribute was immediate, with the opening look composed of his signature crimson red.
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Photos courtesy of Valentino.
The collection was uniquely presented as a Kaiserpanorama, a 19th-century viewing setup consisting of a circular wooden structure punctuated by small ocular holes. Guests gather around the installation, peering into the viewing points to observe the moving images within. Though everyone watched at the same time, each viewpoint offered a singular, isolated perspective. The show notes describe it as “a public ritual founded on the isolation of gaze.”
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Photos courtesy of Valentino.
Twelve circular rooms invited guests—like Tyla, Kirsten Dunst, Dakota Johnson and Lily Allen—to admire the collection through distinct perspectives. In much of the show imagery, you eerily see peeping faces onlooking. In a deliberate rejection of distraction and fast consumption, the setup demands concentration and focus. Here, viewers become transfixed by the subject of the Kaiserpanorama (in this case, models), with their eyes glued to the spectacle, encouraging presence, undistracted thought, and contemplation.
With no other distractions, the va-va-voom of the collection takes center stage (literally). It’s hard to look away when feathers, bold headpieces, rich velvets, eye masks, fur trims, gold crowns, jewels, and sequins collide to depict lavish opulence.
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Photos courtesy of Valentino.
References to the 1920s Art Deco era and Old Hollywood were notoriously sprinkled throughout. Valentino Garavani himself drew ample inspiration from the golden age of cinema, so it’s fitting that Michele honoured that same touchstone. Naturally, the pieces were theatrical, spanning different eras but still harmonious. Angelic figures, dramatic circus-like collars, statement chokers, opera gloves, and, of course, lush plumage took their turn in the daunting spotlight.
Feature image courtesy of Valentino.
