Karin Gustafsson has been with COS from the very beginning and, over the years, the design director’s personal style and that of the brand have become closely linked—it’s all about prioritizing a timeless wardrobe. Through impeccable tailoring and a dedication to rethinking classic designs, the brand has become a go-to for staple pieces. 

“I think the focus remains the same: wardrobe must-haves,” says Gustafsson.

“We reinvent them each season, give them a new proportion and finish, but there’s still this sort of timelessness.” 

The brand’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection plays with structure and texture, creating staple items that can still turn heads—a key approach to keeping shoppers excited about their everyday attire. 

This desire to create “wardrobe must-haves” is not only motivated by the allure of a refined wardrobe, but also aligns with the brand’s commitment to sustainability. When one buys items to wear for years to come, there’s no need for clothing waste. But how do Gustafsson and her team ensure each piece is cherished by the wearer? 

“I think that it’s about having that extra attention to detail,” she says. “You can see that in everything—from how it feels when you wear it, you know, what’s the volume like, how is the lining inside? I think that gives you an emotional connection to something. That’s our goal and our mission.” 

This sustainable approach goes beyond the clothing—COS worked with sustainability partners for its Fall/Winter 2024 runway show to ensure all materials could be reused or recycled. This dedication to reducing the harm of fashion on the environment is especially fitting, given the collection’s natural inspirations. Tactile fabrics and muted, earthy hues dominate the collection, with olive and slate grey offset by a punch of bright, grassy-green accessories. 

Flowing outfits were inspired by body movement—particularly the fluid movements of dancers. The juxtaposition of discipline and freedom exemplified by art forms like ballet intrigued Gustafsson when developing the collection. 

“I was also looking at choreographer Pina Bausch and her exploration of relationships through movement and dance,” says Gustafsson. “We wanted to incorporate the meeting between fluidity and structure.” 

The structured and imaginative tailoring often associated with the brand came into play to create this effect. Through layering and draping, new shapes emerged to breathe life into each outfit. Delicate, sheer fabrics are engulfed by structured and textured outerwear—a strong exterior for the sweet, soft styles beneath. 

“We really liked the idea of something delicate and feminine paired with pieces that are more structured,” says Gustafsson. 

Gustafsson says that a piece’s timelessness is often tied to the emotional response of the wearer. Evoking a feeling, memory, or idea is essential to keep the wearer connected to the item—this is what she and her team look to do with each collection. 

“I think what we talk a lot about is that we need to make things that are quality, and of course, long-lasting, but also [quality] in design, language, and feeling,” says Gustafsson.