For Maria Grazia Chiuri‘s first haute couture collection at FENDI, she fully indulges the body.

These are clothes without constraint. They move to the rhythm and beat of a body in flux. These movements are sometimes bold, other times restrained. But for Chiuri, the through line is a design that gives back to the body without stiffness.

Chiffon effortlessly glides lightly on the body. Meanwhile, the kimono-style shape is used in jackets and overcoats, but reimagined in a couture way from fabrics such as velvet and grain de poudre. The goal is for the wearer to move in the clothes without undue effort, like a dress that sculpts the body without the restriction of a corset, using drapery instead. Tulle also forms the structure of cloaks and capes, while fur, leather, lace, silk, and embroidery engage in dialogue. Playing with these textures really carried the collection’s storytelling of fluidity.

Hosted at the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea in Rome, the event drew stars to the front row, including Sarah Jessica Parker, Jessica Alba, Monica Bellucci, and Yara Shahidi, as the story of Roman heritage unfolded while honouring the late Karl Lagerfeld.

Chiuri is truly showing what a lighter future at FENDI can look like. While evolving, it hasn’t forgotten its signature emblems. The show opened with the recognizable black-and-white chiffon-striped pattern across dresses and tunics. And the collection is not without Art Deco motifs, proving that the contemporary can merge with artisanal heritage in a harmony that feels intentional.

Images courtesy of Fendi.