In a fashion milieu that oscillates between the flashy and covetous Sex and the City–era “it bag” and the nicely discreet quiet luxury handbag, Claire Besco’s work is out of bounds. “I don’t think about what’s ‘in’ or ‘out’ too often. I think it’s more freeing (and sustainable) to decide what you like and how you like to wear it, without putting the pressure of trends on your back,” she says.
To look at Besco’s work is to truly understand the vision behind these words—svelte, long-bodied bags in beautiful glossy calf leathers and soft hazy suedes. In the construction of her accessories, there is no attention to detail missed, which is doubly impressive when one realizes Besco works uniquely with deadstock leathers. “I go to fabric stores, search marketplaces, and repurpose leather items. If it’s scrap leather that I’m working with, I piece it together before assembling a bag. Once, I made a bag that had 52 panels on the interior lining because the scraps had gotten so small,” she remarks.
Besco’s product stands as a bulwark against a dwindling fatto a mano tradition in an increasingly mechanized fashion industry, and the longevity of her pieces is of incredible importance to her. “Every detail is reflective of my admiration for my craft. I had a mini bag that had 150 grommets on it and over 300 hand stitches. I want my work to be something you buy and wear and love and pass down,” emphasizes Besco.
When it comes to leatherwork, though, it’s not just handbags that she designs. Besco also produces handmade leatherware and envisions a future for herself where she designs for film and performance. “I always think about what it was like being the costume designer for the movie Striptease, designing for Demi Moore. I think about costume designing the most. I’d love to expand my knowledge on design by creating more elaborate and glamorous pieces,” she muses.
Besco’s leatherwork, which echoes the high-octane allure of hide design geniuses like Jean-Claude Jitrois and Claude Montana at Idéal Cuir, reveals itself to be a real art form of strong and precise lines. “I take a lot of inspiration from architecture and the shapes around me,” she notes. The future is bright for Besco, a one-woman team who continues to focus on her custom work and progress into markets both within and beyond Toronto.
