Hosted at the MAMO, Centre d’art de la Cité radieuse in Marseille, CHANEL’s Cruise 2024/2025 collection took its guests on a journey into the heart of the Mediterranean to debut its new splashy collection. “Marseille is a city that puts me in touch with my emotions. I tried to capture its power of attraction, its breath of fresh air, and to convey the energy that reigns there. And you couldn’t ask for a better backdrop to a runway show than the Cité radieuse,” says CHANEL creative director, Virginie Viard. “The sun, architecture, music and dance: Marseille also has a very strong sense of freedom.”

“I was inspired by the codes of lifestyle, of everyday life and by all the things that invite movement. The sea and the wind made me want to play with wetsuits,” says Viard. And that she did. Swimwear was front and centre of the presentation, which featured a black and white one-piece suit notable tied up at the neck in a signature CHANEL bow while the top of another was embroidered with little flowers.

Diving deeper still into her inspiration, Viard showed 60s style diving hoods with press studs and wove lovestruck fish and net embroideries throughout. She studded dresses, jackets and vest tops with little shells and shellfish. To continue the aquatic adventure, Viard reimagined the sweatshirt in a fish printed chiffon, while its kangaroo pocket reappeared unexpectedly on hooded sleeveless dresses and sheath styles.

Like some models’ breezy hairstyles, Bermuda shorts given the braided treatment were made for lounging summer days. Elsewhere in footwear, platform terry cloth flip flops struck the ideal seasonal vibe while black patent shoes paired with peacoats nodded to a more masculine feel.

In accessories, all eyes were on what the house does so well: handbags. The CHANEL 22 came reimagined in metallic colours of the sea, but it was the mini versions that stole the show. Also proving good things come in small CHANEL packages were the mini flap bags in classic tweeds and bold plaids.

The 76-look show closed off with a series of breezy white styles, some short, others long, one strapless while another’s sleeves finished in floral appliques, but all with that timeless factor that only CHANEL can achieve each season. For now, the fresh summer breeze blows back to Marseille.

View the gallery to see our favourite looks from CHANEL’s Cruise 2024/2025 collection.

Photos courtesy of CHANEL / Le Corbusier, Unité d’habitation, Marseille © F.L.C. / ADAGP, Paris, 2024.