The Palais Garnier 

CHANEL presented the Fall/Winter 2024/25 Haute Couture Collection this year at the iconic Palais Garnier or the National Opera House of Paris. The location historically signifies the brand’s landmark of creative freedom. Opening in 1861, the architectural masterpiece is a model of great luxury and elegance, similar to that of the fashion house. The show’s location plays a significant role, as this Parisian landmark was paid tribute to and honoured through the collection. Used today as a showcase space for dance and opera, the building sparkles with sculptures, paintings, and architecture that co-exist in an oasis of onyx and marble. 

Palais Garnier is noted for playing a pivotal role in the history of fashion and the story of CHANEL. As a hub for performance, theatricals, and elegance, the collection is revealed outside the corridors surrounding the auditorium. Guests were transformed into red velvet opera boxes with a set designed by French writer and film director Christophe Honoré. Here, the worlds of haute couture and Opera mingle to portray CHANEL’s latest collection. 

A Night at the Opera 

This collection brings to life romantic materials and fabrics that would only be visualized during a night at the Opera. Feathers, tassels, cabochons, embroidered flowers, precious braids, lacquered jerseys, supple tweeds, and silky velvet emit a luxe evening thrill. Volume is present in all forms, pleats are symmetrically repeated, embroidery is rich, and sleeves are puffed. Collectively, these elements embrace to awaken the house’s signature opulence.

The opera was historically a spot for the French bourgeois to gather and be seen. There was an element of showing up to flaunt the wealth and luxuries of the time — fueling a motivation to dress the part. The collection manifests that principle with a black, gold, silver, ivory, pale pink, and celadon palette. Eye-catching looks include a CHANEL suit with box pleats in burgundy tweed trimmed with white satin, a black corduroy tuxedo, a fitted jacket with shoulders covered in black feathers and voluminous capes. They creatively evoke a contemporary stage-like feel while fusing in pageantry elements. With this being the first collection CHANEL has presented without a Creative Director in place, all eyes were on the show, questioning what the house’s future would look like following Virginie Viard’s sudden departure just weeks ago. 

Ballet Influences

CHANEL has long supported and been involved in French art. As a significant patron of the Opera National de Paris since 2023 and of the Ballet de L’Opera since 2021, the house draws influence from the creative discipline of ballet. Looking at the historical influences of avant-garde ballets, the haute couture collection brings ballerina motifs to the forefront. Tutus, pierrot outfits, and nods to the ballets Le Train Bleu (1924) and Apollon Musagète (1928)—for which Gabrielle Chanel created the revolutionary costumes—the Fall-Winter 2024/25 Haute Couture collection leads us into a world where clothes dress the space as much as they conquer it.

Front Row Appeal

The cinematic show brought out house ambassadors Kiera Knightley, Vanessa Paradis, and friends of the house Kerry Washington, Camila Morrone, and Zoey Deutch. With an all-black finale, the collection showcased the technical expertise of the CHANEL Haute Couture team, which employs 150 people at six ateliers at the iconic 31 rue Cambon, where the first CHANEL store opened in 1910. 

To view the full CHANEL Fall/Winter 2024/25 Haute Couture Show watch the video below.