Jessica McCormack is hardly a newcomer in the jewellery world. In fact, it’s in her blood. “My father was an antiques dealer, so I grew up in New Zealand surrounded by art and beautiful, interesting objects,” says McCormack. When she first moved to London, McCormack interned at Sotheby’s in the jewellery department, which turned out to be a turning point for her work as a designer. “For the first time, I was amongst truly special, important pieces, from Russian crown jewels to vintage Cartier,” she says. It gave her inside access to expert craftsmanship like she had never seen before.
“I was inspired to start working on my own designs, with an aim to match the technical skill of these historic pieces, but to pair it with designs for a modern woman,” says McCormack. She set off designing in a studio in Clerkenwell, working with a few craftspeople who are still by her side some 17 years later.
“From the beginning, I knew I really wanted my designs to centre around diamonds, and to make them wearable and cool,” says McCormack of her vision. It’s a goal she’s no doubt accomplished. It’s why the industry’s fashion elite, including Zendaya, Zoë Kravitz, and Victoria Beckham, gravitate toward McCormack’s treasured works. In turn, McCormack tapped Kravitz as her brand’s first ever ambassador. “Zoë is a powerhouse of creativity. She has such a unique, individual sense of style and she is a client, so I know she understands the jewellery. I love seeing how she wears it,” McCormack says.
The key to it all for McCormack comes down to wearability. “When designing I am always thinking about how to make jewellery truly wearable, so that it becomes a part of my clients’ everyday wardrobe,” she explains. “It means feeling comfortable in the jewellery that you own and being able to wear the same diamond necklace in either a t-shirt or dressed for black tie,” she says. Our best pieces should not be saved and worn only once or twice a year, but really enjoyed day-to-day, in McCormack’s expert opinion.
One piece in heavy rotation for many is an engagement ring. “Engagement rings are innately very symbolic,” says McCormack. She takes great care in choosing the right stone for the design and its wearer. “I think I have always looked for diamonds that have an individual character, so that they bring out the best in a design, but more importantly, have a uniqueness that might resonate with someone equally characterful,” McCormack explains.
“When creating an engagement ring it’s really about making something that the client will want to wear forever, so naturally, you have to think about how the ring will feel on their finger; does it sit well, is it comfortable, is the stone secure?” she says. It should be equally exciting. “I think the most important thing is to buy a ring that you really love,” says McCormack. “That may sound obvious, but many of our clients come in with a firm idea of what they want and then leave with something completely different, so my advice would be to love the look and design of the ring above all else.”
While McCormack’s designs might take inspiration and stones from the past, she creates with the future in mind too. “I want to make jewellery that is timeless so that it can be loved, worn, and passed on to the next generation.”
