Everything You Need to Know About Red Light Therapy

It’s everywhere. TikTok, Instagram, the spa, your best friends photo dump – red light therapy has reached critical mass. But what is it, really? How does it work? And is it right for you?

First things first, LED stands for “light emitting diode”. It’s a non-invasive treatment that can penetrate deep into the skin. Even though it’s increasing in popularity now, the technology has been around for decades. In the 1990s, NASA first started studying LED to understand how it might be able to heal wounds in astronauts by helping cells and tissues grow. Today, skin experts use LED light therapy in all sorts of ways to treat a variety of issues.

Ahead, we spoke with Dr. Dennis Gross, world-famous dermatologist and co-founder of his eponymous skincare brand, to get a better understanding of the transformative technology.

EW: Red light therapy is everywhere. Can you give us a quick explanation of what it is and how it works?

Dr. Dennis Gross: “Just like a topical active ingredient, our skin cells have receptors for red LED. When the light connects with these receptors, it effectively tells our skin to start creating more collagen – the key to healthy, youthful-looking skin.”

“As a board-certified dermatologist, I always tell my patients that the best treatment is prevention. It is so much easier to take care of the skin before those fine lines and wrinkles start to form by incorporating collagen-boosting treatments early on. An at-home LED mask is a great way to give the skin a collagen boost, even if you aren’t seeing signs of aging just yet.”

There are a lot of different types of light therapy, but red seems to be the most popular. Why is that?

“Red LED has become very popular because of its healing and anti-aging properties. Red LED light therapy targets redness, the root of inflammation, to immediately calm the appearance and texture of the skin. Additionally, over time, red LED stimulates natural collagen production, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and increasing skin density and firmness.”

Is red light therapy suitable for all skin types and textures?

“Almost anyone can use red light therapy, but it’s especially beneficial for anyone looking to treat visible signs of aging and or looking to reduce redness.”

What should we look out for in red light therapy devices?

“It’s important to remember that not all LED devices are created equal. When looking for an at-home LED device, you should make sure to check if the device has undergone clinical testing and is approved for at-home use. My DRx SpectraLite technology is FDA-approved, meaning the device has gone through rigorous testing to provide substantial evidence for its benefits. OTC devices have a higher-level burden of proof to show efficacy and safety because a consumer is in charge of their treatment. As a doctor, safety is always a top priority.”

Are there any dangers to be wary of using red light therapy?

“The amazing thing about LED light therapy is that it has a long list of benefits without any risk of downtime, pain or irritation. Some topical ingredients like retinol and vitamin C need to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin, and although they are useful and powerful ingredients, this process can disrupt the skin’s moisture barrier triggering dryness or sensitivity. On the other hand, LED can penetrate the skin without irritating the uppermost layers. This makes LED light therapy a great tool to pair with other ingredients to bring the skin into balance and soothe any irritation from active ingredients.”

Here are 4 red light tools that we love: