If you’ve had the sense recently that fragrance has become more popular, or a bigger part of the zeitgeist, you’re not alone.
“People have become more attuned to the sensory aspects of their lives and fragrance has become a way to create a mood, enhance an atmosphere, or evoke memories in a time when we’ve needed that extra connection,” says Maya Nije, a self-taught fragrance expert who started her niche, eponymous perfume brand in 2016.
Inspired by her Swedish upbringing and West African heritage, Njie sets out to capture, by way of scent, moments in time and tropes of familial life. Her formulas are developed in her London studio, using a variety of essential oils, aroma compounds and resins. Making use of both natural and synthetics in her creations, her blends are mixed in small fresh batches.
Sad as it may be to admit, the cooler weather is officially here to stay. And with that comes a season of transition—especially in our beauty routines. Specific to fragrance, now is a time to ditch the light, summery scents and move into richer, darker, more decadent profiles.
Here, the Njie shares her tips for discovering a signature scent and some of her favourite picks for the cooler seasons.
Ebonie Walker: What scents are most popular for cooler weather and why?
Maya Njie: “For cooler weather, people often gravitate towards warmer, richer scents. Notes like amber, vanilla, leather, and woods such as cedar wood or sandalwood tend to be popular because they have a comforting and enveloping quality. Spicy notes like cinnamon or cardamom can also add a layer of warmth that feels cozy and inviting, which aligns with the desire to feel snug and protected during the colder months.”
And what about you—what’s your favourite scents for the fall and winter?
“I’m particularly drawn to the combination of cardamom and vanilla during the fall and winter. My scent Vanilj has a warm, spicy quality that feels both invigorating and comforting. It reminds me of Sweden, where the spice is commonly used in baking. I describe it as a Scandinavian gourmand as it has a sweetness to it but very much also about the woody and earthy notes tied to the Swedish landscapes and nature. I layer it with Tobak when I feel like adding a leather and vetiver facet to the experience.. It’s an addictive pairing—you’ve been warned!”
For someone looking to discover their signature scent, what advice would you give?
“Take your time and try scents on your skin. Fragrance is such a personal experience, and it can develop differently depending on your skin chemistry. I recommend starting with a discovery set to explore various fragrances at your own pace. Pay attention to how a scent evolves over a few hours, and don’t rush to make a decision. It’s important that the scent feels like a natural extension of yourself and evokes the kind of emotions you’re looking for. Challenge yourself and don’t let the names and fragrance families dictate your choice without having tried the fragrance as there are so many interpretations and styles to be explored, you might surprise yourself.”
What do you love most about fragrance?
“I love how fragrance can transport you to different places and moments, evoking memories and emotions in a way that no other sense can. It’s an art form that connects with people on a deeply personal level, allowing for self-expression and storytelling. The way a scent can transform the mood of a space or influence how someone feels about themselves is truly amazing. Working on fragrance formulas feels to me like composing a piece of music. Although I don’t play any instruments, I see a parallel between the two worlds. In perfumery, my ingredients are like heartstrings—when I get it right, it can resonate deeply with those who choose to wear the scents.”
Fall Fragrance Favourites
If You Want To Be Mysterious, But Also Make An Impression
Byredo, Desert Dawn
Opening with inviting sweet spices of Cardamom and Rose Petals, wood-forward notes recall the dry heat of the desert. The enveloping warmth of Sandalwood and Cedarwood form a powerful heart: powdery and slightly earthy. At the base, an enticing finish lingers with the rich smokiness of Vetiver and Silk Musk, enlivened by the crisp, clean scent of Papyrus.
$225 at Byredo
If You Can Always See Both Sides In A Debate
Henry Rose, Torn
Torn is an unconventional, boozy-but-not-sweet vanilla scent that also happens to be its founder, Michelle Pfeiffer’s, favourite. The richness of vanilla bean blends with the earthiness of vetiver to create an aroma that’s both spicy andfloral—the best of both worlds.
$120 at Henry Rose
If You Love A Slicked-Back Bun And No-Makeup Makeup
Merit, Retrospect
With top notes of bergamot, pear, and aldehydes, a heart of jasmine, synthetic rose, rosemary, violet, and orris, and a bottom of vanilla, musk, and moss, Retrospect opens super soft and clean before settling into a rich base for a warm, second-skin finish.
$125 at Merit
If You Want To Smell Like Candy, But In A Sexy Way
Maya Njie, Vanilj
Using the distinctly traditional Swedish combination of Vanilla and Cardamon, Vanilj is a sophisticated powdery-gourmand scent, with a slightly boozy bourbon facet.
$201 at Maya Njie