Behind-the-Scenes: CHANEL Makeup Artist Julie Cusson on Embracing Bold, Palette-Driven Beauty

Further exploring the theme of adventure at the heart of CHANEL’s latest Métiers d’Art collection, CHANEL Makeup Artist Julie Cusson shaped her beauty direction by drawing references from Hangzhou’s cinematic atmosphere—where the collection was first unveiled—and the artistry showcased across each garment. Here, Cusson shares her techniques for skincare, dreamy reverse cat eye, and the key to experimenting with a bold palette.

What was your approach to prepping Meng’s skin for the beauty direction you had in mind for this shoot?

“I prepped Meng’s face using a layering technique and applied Sublimage. I love these products: right from the first application, you can already see the benefits: the skin texture is smooth, firm and plump, wrinkles are less visible, and the face appears radiant. With the layering technique, you start with the lightest texture and finish with the richest. This simple method seals in the benefits and supports the hydrating process on the face.”

“For Meng, I began with Sublimage L’Extrait de Lotion to regenerate the skin. Then, using my fingers, I massaged around the eyes with Sublimage Yeux in a continuous motion to enhance vitality. Finally, I applied Sublimage l’Extrait de Crème; the active and powerful vanilla planifolia and swertia extract in this skincare product acts as a cure for the skin due to its global and rejuvenating approach.”

The Métier d’Art collection was presented at dusk in Hangzhou, which resulted in a moody and powerful show. The looks you created also have this quality. Can you talk about where you drew your inspiration?

“This CHANEL Métier d’Art Collection is so mysterious, magical, and powerful to me! With [our model] Meng’s exceptional sculptural features, my inspiration was to create something distinctive; it’s why I created a reverse cat eye to emphasize her gaze. But I didn’t want to use a classic black shade on her eyes. I wanted something dreamy and to add colour to make a connection with the little details on the garments, like the colourful flowers and butterflies. This beautiful mauve shade from the CHANEL Summer makeup collection was appealing, and this colour made a lot of sense to me.”

How do you create balanced look when working with such a colourful palette?

“A great way to work with colour is to create a monochromatic harmony. For this photo shoot, I used a light, shimmery mauve for the eyeshadow and a deep purple shade for the eyeliner to create a reverse cat eye. By selecting shades from the same family, I achieve balance and a bold statement!”

“When you play with multiple colours on your face, using different textures for your makeup look is important to maintain harmony. That’s why I chose a matte eyeliner, a shimmery pink-coral blush for the cheeks, and a lipstick with a sheer, balmy finish for lips.”

What’s a good way of experimenting with a colourful beauty look if you’re more understated in your makeup routine?

“A good way to start incorporating colours into your makeup routine is, for example, to use a deep purple or a sienna red shade instead of black eyeliner. Surprisingly, these colours can be flattering, powerful, and elegant for the eyes!”

“Alternatively, you can add a touch of colour in the inner corner of the eye, under the brow, or along the lash line by using colourful eyeshadows like a coppery pink, a lilac, or a mint green. These colours from the CHANEL Spring/Summer collection are perfect! My recommendation is to use one colour at a time! When it’s new for you to experiment with colour, it’s easier to start with a soft eyeshadow texture.”

What are your top 3 products for summer?

“Jeux de Lumières, this palette, with its 4 shimmery and satiny shades, is for the eyes and the face. This palette is everything you need to bring a glow to your summer makeup look! When I am unsure which blush shade to choose, I blend all the colours together with my brush! The look is beautiful on the cheek!”

“This summer, colourful lips are relevant: pink, peach, raspberry, lilac, and light red are refined and delicate. Shades from Rouge Coco Baume are glowy, and this lipstick balm keeps lips hydrated. All colours from the summer collection can match every complexion and lip tone. Using a colourful, waterproof eyeliner like Stylo Yeux Waterproof during summer is definitely a must, and it is water-resistant!”

Photography: Michelle Du Xuan
Model: Meng (Let It Go)
Styling: Sahar Nooraei
Hair and Makeup: Julie Cusson for CHANEL Beauty
Casting: Keva Legault
Digital Tech: Olivier Colairo
Editorial and Creative Director: Sahar Nooraei
Art Director: Jessica Hui
Fashion Director: Haley Dach